Limpopo ecosystem

Limpopo ecosystem

Kruger National Park, Sabi Sands, Pamushana National Park, the Jock concession and the Sweni Concession

The Limpopo transfrontier park is a huge patchwork area of protected land. Including several large national parks, as well as hunting areas and private reserves, this is one of the last great Savannah wildernesses of Africa.

Importantly, while there are areas with many tourists, there are also areas with little access. This huge park is primarily for the protection of the wilderness and wildlife that lives there. However, when well run it can also improve the standard of living for those living around its borders.

The selection of lodges I am offering here, range from properties in Sabi Sands, deep in the south, right up to Mallilangwe reserve which borders the north-west boundary of Gonarezhou national park, with a variety of Kruger national park concession lying in between.

I hope to add far more in the future. In particular, I will make a visit to Kruger to list the public rest stops ( I hope to be able to list these as soon as possible. The lodges that are currently listed range through the luxurious, however safari should not be the preserve of the wealthy. The public campsites have various accommodation available, from public campsites and luxury permanent tents, to huts of various size. These I am hoping will be added by the end of the year, the public accommodation is also available through the san parks website. Review of the Kruger is here

Whether you are visiting on the luxurious safari of your life, with a budget to live in luxury throughout your stay, or going on a shoestring we want to help. Or perhaps you wish to camp but have a day and night in luxury sometime in your stay.

For further information on any particular lodge, click the photo  to  see more information.

Singita Sabi Sands

One of the oldest protected private reserves, this area is world renown for its incredible wildlife sightings.

Currently offering you one of three places to stay all within the Singita area of the Sabi Sands, all with fascinating guides and wonderful creature comforts. It also has an unusually large density of leopards.

Places to stay in Sabi Sands

Ebony Lodge

Lying on the banks of the Sand river, amongst the big trees which only grow where there is plenty of water, you can sit in the shade watching the wildlife go by. With a range of suites from small couple focused to family spaces, spread widely to give everyone their own space.

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Boulders Lodge

Taking its name from the huge boulders that litter this stretch of the river, this lodge is also built amongst the trees along the Sabi sands river. Well shaded, with fantastic views of the river and surrounding Savannah you can watch the wildlife from the many boardwalks that link this property together.

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Castleton

If you are visiting the Sabi sands as part of a group, then Castleton may prove to be a good option. With 6 double suites this is a perfect place for a large family or group of friends to spend time together. Fully self contained, with a wildlife guide, cook and other staff, and with incredible views out onto the surrounding Savannah, this is a fantastic place to base yourself during a safari and to enjoy time together.

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Silvan Safari lodge

“Located in the northern section of the spectacular Sabi Sand region, where the roar of the lion is your morning wake up call and the cry of the fish eagle your hourly reminder that every heart and soul on earth beats with the connected rhythm of these historic lands.” Crowned 2018 leading luxury lodge worldwide this newest luxury lodge within the Sabi Sands region, is built to allow incredible comfort deep in the wilderness, and allow you to experience it.

Designed to keep you close to nature, amazing views are to be seen in all directions.

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Singita Kruger National Park Concession

Due in part to Singita’s impressive track record in maintaining and improving the state of the land that they have looked after, in 2001 Singita was awarded a concession. This concession lies in the southwest of the Kruger National Park on the border between South Africa and Mozambique. Covering around 55 square miles it is an area of astounding wilderness seemingly untouched by human hands. Falling close to the Satara rest camp, this area of the park is well known for some of the best big cat sightings in the Kruger – and therefore in the world.

Places to stay in Kruger National Park - Singita private concession

The two lodges only have around 20 suites combined, so you can be sure it won’t feel packed even when full.

Lembombo Lodge

Lembombo lodge falls within a private concession near the Mozambique border, allowing you to avoid the crowds. Set along the cliffs, alongside the N’wanetsi River ensuring plenty of game to watch from the lodge. With luxurious comfort and knowledgable guides this is a wonderful place to spend your safari.

Surrounded and shaded by beautiful trees, all of the suites are secluded allowing you to be fully at one with the wilderness you are in while enjoying all of the creature comforts you could possibly imagine. When you do venture out, the guides will be able to introduce this incredible place, and the sights and experiences will stay with you as you leave.

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Sweni Lodge

Sweni lodge is set alongside the Sweni river, and is built so you never feel removed from the wilderness. Lying in an exclusive area of the Kruger, you expect wonderful food and creature comforts, but miles from anywhere. This remoteness means that the animals feel safe and come closer than they would elsewhere.

Generally, only along rivers do trees grow big in Africa. This is because they are the only trees which get plenty of water. This is one of the reasons that leopards stay in this area as trees here are large enough for them to rest up comfortably.

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Jock lodge view from a bedroom

Jock's Kruger concession
(Jock concession)

The Concession around Jocks lodge and Fitzpatrick lodge lies in the south of the park, where the wildlife is at its densest. Consisting of 6000 hectares of exclusive bush, solely for the use of guests of the main lodge and secondary small lodge.

Given that these two lodges only have a combined 9 suites, even if it is full to capacity, it is not going to feel full. This gives drives and sightings a different feel to out in the greater Kruger. There are not going to be other vehicles stopped to tell you there is something to look for, but with a fantastic guide this will not be necessary.

As the animals see far fewer vehicles and people, you can be sure to natural behavior in the animals you see.

Places to stay in Jocks Kruger concession

Jock lodge view
Fitzpatrick view from the lodge

Jock lodge is the main place to stay within the Jock concession. However as it only has 6 double bedrooms it is never going to feel full

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Fitz-patrick lodge is a far smaller destination, designed for small groups or families to be able to enjoy time together. With 3 double rooms, there is plenty of space, for time together or to spread out

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Mallilangwe Reserve and Gonarezhou national park

Far north of Sabi Sands, at the other extreme of the Limpopo transfrontier park is a very different part of the wilderness. Mallilangwe reserve lies beside the Gonarezhou National Park. It was formed after a large donation allowed its purchase by the Zimbabwe government.

Pamushana lodge is the ecotourism branch of this project – the money raised is reinvested into the upkeep of the reserve. It sits high on a ridge overlooking the wilderness of the area. Consisting of seven suites which range from big enough for a couple, to a six person family, even when full it will never feel crowded.

Well known particularly for its black rhino there are large populations of many species in the surrounding area.

Pamushana Lodge

Pamushana Lodge is a traditional lodge set in the Pamushana reserve, high on a cliff overlooking the surrounding area. This includes lakes and planes. 

The lodge is decorated in the Zimbabwean fashion, with bright cloths and bead work.

The lodge consists of 8 luxurious suites, as well as a 5 bedroom villa for groups. As such even if full, Pamushana lodge will never have more than 9 groups. In the evening there is enough space that each group can sit on their own, or sit around getting to know new people and discussing the adventures of the day. 

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Malilingwe House

Malilingwe House offers the ability to enjoy the Pashumana reserve, in a space of your own.

An incredibly luxurious way to do safari, your group will have its own staff to look after you. These will include a people to cook and a  driver and wildlife guide. Having the place to yourself gives you the freedom to structure it exactly as your interests and tastes dictate.

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Lebombo lodge

Lembombo Lodge

Lembombo lodge is set on cliffs overlooking the N’wanetsi River. You can sit in comfort and watch the animals go by, or watch them play in the river.

Lying within a private concession deep in the heart of the Kruger National Park, you get the advantage of being deep within the wilderness, but still with few people having access.

The concession covers over 80 square miles so all game drives can occur within its borders – meaning that you will not encounter hundreds of cars, and you will enjoy the wilderness largely alone.

With only 13 suites, the lodge will never feel full, and with expansive decks in the evenings you can choose to enjoy your solitude or share tales of your adventures from the day.

One of these lies in a house on its own with two suites, should a party want more space to themselves.

There is no barrier to stop the wildlife coming close, though with guards around you need never be in fear of your safety.

Despite being in the middle of a huge area of wilderness,  creature comforts are not in short supply.

It is widely considered as one of Singita’s best lodges (which is saying something). 

If you are interested in visiting, or would like to know more (including price) please fill in the form below

To return to the Limpopo ecosystem page click here

Black leopard sighting Kenya

Will Burrard-Lucas / Camtraptions Ltd

Will  Burrard Lucas,  a British wildlife photographer, has taken the wildlife jackpot shot and managed to photograph a wild black leopard in Africa, in Laikipia Wilderness Camp in Kenya.

Her took the photo in Kenya, on a camera trap he had set up. Black leopards (as with jaguars, servals, tigers and other cats) are normal leopards which have an extremely rare recessive gene. Given that the gene in question is recessive it is rare that a leopard would have both parents carrying the recessive gene and so ends up black.

In specific parts of the world,  black leopards are far less rare – on the Malaysian peninsula as much as half of the leopards are black. However, these leopards live in dark jungles which means there is more dark shadows for the leopards top hide in. This means that there is a higher advantage for black leopards, making them more likely to have many young.

While leopards are active mostly at night, and therefore black leopards can be easier camouflaged, for savannah leopards they need to be able to hide during the day.  Although they mostly lie up a tree during the day, a black leopard is more visible.

Singita Sabi Sands – South Africa

Visit Sabi Sands, the world famous private reserve on the edge of the world famous Kruger National Park

Singita run 3 lodges on the Sabi Sands, a private nature reserve on the edge of the Kruger National Park. Sabi Sands covers 650 square km (about 250 square miles) of pristine land sharing an unfenced border with the Kruger. This means that you have the privacy and reduced numbers of not being within the national park, but as it is part of the same ecosystem it is a ecotourism big 7 reserve (lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, elephant, rhino and buffalo).

Which ever lodge you choose, you will find a luxurious experience awaits you. Each one has a different feel, but all will give you a wonderful base for exploration of the reserve with experienced nature guides to show you around.

Left: Boulders Lodge, Right: Ebony Lodge

While the luxurious lodge is fantastic it is not why you will travel half way around the world, though most days you could sit in your lodge looking out and constantly have something interesting to look at.

Left: Ebony Lodge, Right: Castleton Lodge

All lodges will have superbly knowledgeable game drivers who will take you into the bush every day, and will be able to give you much information on what ever you encounter. Sabi Sands is about 280 square miles, which does not sound like much, however as it borders the Kruger without a fence between, there is a significant population of all the animals that are safari favourites.  Furthermore the Sabi Sands is in the South of the Kruger which is where there are the highest densities of lions and leopards and cheetahs, as well as regular sightings of the rhino elephants buffalo and wild dogs. 

Although you will be out in the wilderness, even here you can expect lots of luxury.

Below is a form that allows you to book your amazing trip. If you are merely wanting to ask a question, you only need fill in your email address and put your question in the message box.

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All images courtesy of Singita.

 

 

Does hunting pay its way?

Even in the current age where many species such as elephants and lions are facing steep declines in population and range, there are still many countries where it is legal to go and hunt them and other species. Unlike many conservationists I am not inherently against hunting, however the way it is done in many places baffles me. I realise with many people it is essentially “the bragging rights” that they are looking for. Shoot an animal and mount its head on your wall at home. One hundred years ago, when there were more animals left I could understand this idea, but nowadays, when we are likely to have to explain to our grandchildren if not children why these animals no longer live in the wild I don’t want one stuck to my wall! Continue reading “Does hunting pay its way?”

Review of Udzungwa National Park, Tanzania

Driving around Tanzania, you regularly come across tiny remnants of rainforest that still exist high up in hills and mountains. East Africa used to have more rainforest, but the area has dried out over the last few thousand years (East Africa has an extremely long cycle of drying out and the retreat of rainforest and then its return). However with extra altitude you get more rain. That means that driving around areas that are largely dry savannah you can find small pockets of forest if the road rises significantly. As such driving between protected areas you can suddenly find that you are in a forest remnant and that there are monkeys above your head. One of the largest protected remnants is the Udzungwa National Park. This park protects a part of the eastern arc mountains that run across eastern Tanzania. The park protects around 770 square miles. Much of this is rainforest, with six species of primate, four of which are endemic. One of these the highland mangabay  (also called kipunji) was only discovered in 2005.

We stopped off for 4 days after leaving the Selous ecosystem. This is a park that I would highly recommend to anyone. After visiting the park headquarters, you are free to explore. Compared to the surrounding rainforest the prices were extremely cheap. We paid around £200 for two of us for 4 day guided walk in the forest and camping each night.

It does require a reasonably high level of fitness as you spend your days scrambling up and down steep hills and mountains. We went to stay in an encampment a significant distance inside the forest. There are few roads so everything is done on foot. The park is particularly popular for birds but also has a large number of reptiles. We did not see anyone inside the park, we had the paths we were on completely to ourselves. What is particularly odd that due to its size, many of the usual forest animals are not there such as chimpanzees, though they did live here at one time. Also missing is the forest elephant. However as this reserve is close to savanah parks there are elephants from there- forest elephants have developed smaller tusks to help them get around within a crowded forest, but these ones manage fine. While we did not encounter one we did see dung in many places.

With more time, you can go for a longer hike (4 days in each direction) to the furthest part of the reserve. In this part of the reserve you have an area of Savanah. This is particularly exciting as there are lions among other animals, but there are no vehicles so if you wish to see the elephants you have to walk.

There are no guesthouses or hotels within the park, though the local village does have some. There are however, a few campsites. Many of these are deep in the forest and are not going to be used except within the middle of a hike. We stayed in one of these campsites deep within the park. This was just stunning, and we found this park to be one of the most relaxing parts of our tanzanian holiday. However we also camped within a separate campsite across the road from the park, with beautiful view. It was only just being set up but the plans included large amounts of wild land and a lake which is likely to attract animals to watch during the evening.

Review of Selous Game Reserve, Tanzania

The Selous nature reserve is the largest protected savannah reserve in Africa. It covers roughly 50,000 square km (19,000 square miles). However this reserve is named Selous after Fredrick Selous, a successful hunter. 95% of the park is set aside for hunting. However, partly because of this and also because of an insect that inhabits the area; bites from the insect can give humans an illness called sleeping sickness, and therefore humans have not settled in the area. However due to its size, it has the capacity to protect huge populations of many mammals.

Few people visit the nature reserve, but this means that you are likely to experience a hugely wild experience, and usually have any sightings completely to yourself. It has been hard hit by the elephant poaching that followed the southern African countries one off sale of their elephant ivory stocks. The intention of these occasional sales is to drop the price of Ivory which means that it is not worth the huge risk to get it (both physically and from detection from the game wardens). However, the risk is that it increases the desire for ivory, and in this instance the second happened. In 2007 it was estimated that the elephant population of the Selous was around 110,000. When we went in 2011 the population was estimated at 30,000. 80,000 elephants from this one protected area were killed. As can be imagined the the remaining elephants are very wary of humans,and so aggressive,  which makes it harder to get significant numbers of people coming to the reserve to take pictures.

A population that has not been decimated in recent years is the lion population, in this reserve it is estimated that there is roughly 5,000 lions. This is roughly a quarter of the remaining lions in Africa.

Practical review

While I greatly enjoyed my visit here, it is not an easy place to travel to on your own. There are very few amenities here. This is partly because the majority of people who visit the park will do it on a far larger budget; there are the resources within the park for an astoundingly luxurious trip. For me, I am far more interested in paying the money to go to very remote places and then living frugally.

My wife and I camped in a camp called Lake Tagalala camp, this cost $25 dollars per night which is not terrible, but here it buys you some space to put your tent up, and a long drop toilet. Washing consisted of walking the 100m to the local lake, with your night guard as there were both crocodile and hippos were in the lake close to where you were able to use it. You also had to pay $50 dollars for a night guard each night. While this does not seem to much, we felt ripped off. All the night guards are day guides, so generally go to bed early (and indeed went to bed around 7pm every night we were there) also if you are sharing the camp with another group you are still charged $50 dollars but there is one between the two (or on some occasions more) groups. On those nights our $50 dollars bought us a good evening and good morning. $50 dollars is the average income for tanzanians per month. We did feel in places that people expected to be able to rip off tourists as they wanted (one warning: we were offered a free walk, on return, the guy demanded the full cost of the walk – we paid up but on leaving the park our driver went in and informed the authorities and got our money back)

Just as an aside, our car was the biggest headache for the whole trip. It was very expensive ($120 per day). It came with a driver and we were picked up at the airport promptly, which was lovely. The problems however started almost immediately. The windscreen was cracked badly already, though the whole pane needed to be replaced quite quickly as we hit a branch which made it far worst. The cold box was not working, the windows did not open some of the doors did not work etc. As you can imagine for the price we felt that this was a rather huge rip-off, and this was never fully rectified. However the driver we had was a lovely guy. It was unfortunate that his English was almost non existent, and it took several days to get him to understand how to drive within the park (slowly so we can look for animals and various other simple techniques to help us find animals). We did also discover after a few days that he was using the majority of our water, having not been sent with water of his own (when you are in a remote place perhaps 50 miles from the nearest place to replace your water this is quite important). However, I wish to say that our driver was lovely, very helpful and made sure that we were not ripped off when we went to buy things, the problem lay with the firm that rented the car in the first place.

Review of Kruger National Park

  • Size [usr 4.5]
  • Facilities [usr 5]
  • Range of animals [usr 5]
  • Road quality [usr 4.5]
  • Wildness [usr 3.5]

Kruger is one of the few national parks in the world that is large enough to have a sizeable population for some of its rarer animals. It is also part of the Limpopo transfrontier park which includes the Limpopo park in Mozambique, Gonarezhou National Park, Manjinhi pan Sanctuary and Malipati Safari area in Zimbabwe as well as the area between Kruger and Gonarezhou, and the Sengwe communal land in Zimbabwe and Makuleke region in South Africa. The area of this whole piece park is 35000 square km. There are plans to increase this in size to close to 100,000 square km. About 18,000 square km (half) of this is the Kruger National Park.

The Kruger Park on its own is the equivalent of an area roughly the size of Wales. It has 138 different species of mammal roaming free. This includes 6 species of Cat, 3 of Dog (two of these are jackels) and many species of Antelope.

The Cat species include Lions (about 1500), Leopard (about 2000), Cheetah (200), Caracal, African wild cat, and Serval. Lions are easily found and generally do not fear cars, we saw lions at some point on most days we spent within the park. Leopards are far more secretive and we had been in the area for almost 3 months before we saw our first one. That is not to say that they are always this hard to see but often keep themselves hidden. There is a section of the river which claims to have the worlds highest density of leopards in the world.

Cheetah are very hard to find in the park because as there is much vegetation you can not spot them from a distance like in the Serengeti. Because there are very few of them sightings are a rare treat, though because they hunt mostly by sight, they are most active in the day, and often hunt during the hottest part of the day when the lions and leopards are resting. When we had our sighting of cheetah within Kruger, they were clearly looking for food and were standing on a small mound on the side of the road. We followed them as they slowly went off after prey in the distance, but quickly lost them.

The last major predator is the African wild dog. African wild dog are highly successful pack animals. No African mammal is successful more often when hunting. However unfortunately this means that they are highly mobile and while we narrowly missed them on many occasions, we never got lucky with these fascinating animals. The Kruger has a relatively stable population of 350 animals, however they are very susceptible to illnesses, and due to the shape of Kruger, there is always the risk of rabies or canine distemper being spread through the population from strays living around the park. In 1992, the wild dog population of the Serengeti disappeared in one year. Because that park is connected to others wild dog are slowly returning. There are proactive projects trying to improve the health of dogs around remaining national parks containing wild dog, in the hope of saving this fascinating mammal.

It has both white rhino and black rhino populations, though the black rhino population remains low. Rhino have been targeted in the last decade. It is believed that by grinding down rhino horn and drinking it many illnesses can be cured. While this is rubbish demand meant that rhino horn was for a time more valuable than an equivalent weight in Gold. More absurd is the fact that White Rhino horn is made of keratin, the same substance that make up our fingernails (and you will get the same medicinal remedy by grinding up your fingernails and drinking them). At one point the poaching was running at one thousand animals a year, though thankfully this number has reduced. Black Rhino also once existed within the area in great numbers but were eradicated. They were reintroduced and there is a population of around 400-600, that has grown from a founder popuation of 90 between the 1970 and 1990s. Black rhino being browsers rather than the grazing white rhino (misnamed, White was a mistranslation of the Africaans name Weit meaning wide) and as such their droppings are easily differentiated. We encountered black rhino droppings a few times so knew that there was at least one animal in the area we spent much of our time, but they are very shy spending much of their time deep in cover so not seen very often.

When the park was enclosed it was worked out that the carrying capacity of the park was 7000 elephants. Currently the number exceeds 16000 which is roughly twice the calculated carrying capacity of the reserve. Up until 1990 regular culls kept the elephant population limited, but since then the size has doubled. However this is a rather difficult problem to work out as the elephants are not living in the same way that they would have lived hundreds of years ago. Elephants are very destructive, regularly pushing down trees and generally changing the area as they see fit; at a certain point in the elephants would have migrated out of the area for some time allowing the land to recover. Once the elephants were fenced in this was not possible. The hope is that this migrating behaviour can be restarted within transfrontier parks like the Kruger, though this behaviour might take many years to start.

On a smaller scale, due to the fact that large parts of the reserve have never been anything other than wild, this means that the ecosystem functions well in the natural way that it did for millenia before humans appeared. As such apart from all the big animals to be looking for, there are also dozens of smaller animals to be looking out for, animals such as Servals, Caracals, Civit cats, Genets, African wild cats, Pangolins, Aardvarks and many many more. This makes the reserve an exciting place to drive through; you never know what animal might walk out into the road (or be spotted in the nearby bushes).

Practical review

The Kruger is possibly the easiest large nature reserve in Africa to visit. This is because the majority of the roads are tarmacked and most of the rest are dust paths that are still easy to drive. Almost all the roads you are allowed to drive are easily driveable in a 2 wheel drive, therefore there is no need within the Kruger for 4 wheel drive, though the extra height of the vehicle comes in useful because it makes it easier to see over bushes and other cars.

The campsites have electric fences around them so there is no need to hire guards to look after yourself, this also makes Kruger probably the most child friendly large reserve as within the safety of the camp, children can play close by without needing to look out for animals all the time. There are about 12 main campsites but many of these have satellites camps that allow for a more wild feel (less easily child friendly).

For those looking for a wilder feel, some of the camps have satellite camps that are far smaller with fewer resources, but this means that often the animals come closer.

Each campsite has a sightings board, which contains a map of the park and pins of different colours to allow you to say where you saw different animals. This means that with some planning each morning you can make sure you look through parts of the park where sightings are most likely. This means that even if it is your first visit you can often have sightings just like a seasoned wildlife guide.

See Animals Wild