Spain is a large country, with an area over twice the size of the UK. Yet its population is only 71% of the UK. Like much of western Europe, there was an extensive effort to eliminate many of the predators, however given the size of the country, relict populations survived. Unlike France, where these relict populations were not allowed to survive, in Spain (and to a lesser extent, Portugal, these animals clung on and some have recovered since).

Bear

Bear watching is a highly rewarding, if often frustrating pastime. Being highly intelligent, they can keep out of sight with ease. Their eyesight is far better than ours, allowing them to be active long into the night. Having said this, they are considered crepuscular, active in the early morning and evening.

The Iberian bear has not been recognized a specific subspecies of bear, and indeed, it is quite possible that they would happily breed with other populations. Never-the-less, their isolation has lead to a quite specific identity. Known as the Iberian bear, or more commonly as the Cantabrian bear, it has been stuck in two populations in northern Spain, since around 1950. It should be noted, that 500 years ago, they were known to live on the Mediterranean coast around Andalucía. At this time, there was thought to be around 1000 of the bears. While their decline has not been as bad as the bears in France, it has none-the-less declined since then, dropping under 100 in the 1990s. How dramatic the recovery has been, is something hard to ascertain as every site has a different estimate, however, it is certainly over 300, with many sources suggesting a number of around 400. This suggests that in the last 15 or so years, the population has been allowed to grow quite healthily, I remember visiting around 2010 and being told that the population was around 150, but that suggests between a doubling and a tripling over the last 15 years, which is impressive (this could have been a significant under-estimate).

Currently, the Cantabrian bear lives in 2 populations, an eastern and a western population. The eastern one, was only thought to be around 30-40 and given the lack of genetic variability, it is quite likely that this population will not have grown greatly. The western population, however, has recovered nicely. There are plans to try to re-merge these two populations, though some large roads lie between them (these can have bridges built so should not be too much of an impediment). Wild cherry trees are being planted in small islands, on the farmland that splits the two populations to encourage further crossing.

The other population of bears on the Iberian peninsular lives along the border with France in the Pyrenees. This population currently numbers around 70 (up from 40 around 20 years ago). 

Due to the small and relatively shy population of bears in the Pyrenees, there is little tourism structure to help you see the bears here. In the Cantabrian mountains it is quite different. I have visited this region on several occasions, and have been able to sit watching them play. It is quite different from bear watching elsewhere in Europe, where if you see them, they are generally quite close. Instead, you sit quietly up in the mountains, and watch the bears play on the slopes opposite. At one point, on my last visit, I could see around 15 bears at the same time (though spread over quite an area).

Wolves 

Wolves on the Iberian peninsular have suffered a similar level of hostility, though in their case, the wolf population reached its minimum around 1970, when the population was only 500-700 strong. These lived in and around the Sierra de Culebra hunting reserve. While those of us who prefer to remember encounters through pictures instead of a mounted head, might shun a hunting reserve, the simple fact is that this reserve protected the wolf, allowing only 10 or so to be hunted each year. Furthermore, these hunting rights were not sold to wealthy foreigners, but usually raffled to local people. This meant that the local population became invested in their future survival.

The population has grown well over the intervening years, and is now estimated at around 2500. There is still much space for further recovery, but they are currently relatively stable.

We have spent several weeks in the area around this reserve, and have caught glimpses of the wolf on several occasions. I have also heard it howling, close up, which is an experience that I would love to repeat.

Iberian Lynx

Formerly considered a subspecies of the Eurasian Lynx, this animal has recently been raised to species status. Not long ago, found throughout the Iberian peninsular and throughout much of south west France, its population had been greatly reduced through overhunting of the lynx and its prey. However, what brought it to the brink of extinction was the introduction of Myxomatosis in the rabbit population – the lynx main food. By 2002 just 94 remained, in two isolated populations in Andalusia. 

Conservationists went to work, by improving habitat and restocking rabbits, and by 2012 the wild population had grown to 326, 855 by 2020 and 1668 by May 2023.

While this is a fantastic recovery, as you can see from the range map to the right, there is still much work to do, if the Iberian lynx is going to roam the whole of the Iberian peninsular (never mind parts of Southern France as well).

Other wildlife to be seen include 

Wild boar: seen throughout much of the country, though rarer in the south east. The population is large, with an estimated 2 million of them living in the country.

Elk: Common in parts of the country

Chamois: Also common in parts of the country

There are also many other things to see. We hope to list many of the amazing sights in the country over the next while, and links will appear on this page